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“There was cheese, cheese, wafting in the breeze…”

Where else but the Royal Hospital would the delights of British cheese be celebrated with trumpeters, a blessing, a sing song and a foxtrot? 

On Wednesday 7th December, the Chelsea Pensioners, guests and staff gathered together in honour of British cheese – a tradition that stretches back more than three centuries. 

In 1692, the year of our foundation, a local cheesemonger donated some of his produce to the ‘Red Breasts of Chelsea’ for Christmas. Ever since, the Ceremony of the Christmas Cheeses has been marked – with Dairy UK kindly donating the cheese since 1959. After the ceremony, the Pensioners enjoy the cheeses at mealtimes during the festive season. Here we share the flavour of this unique and quintessentially Royal Hospital celebration.

295 kilograms of the finest British cheese

The sunlight poured through the windows of the Great Hall as Royal Hospital’s Regimental Sergeant Major, Ross Martin, started the proceedings. A string quartet and trumpeters from the British Army Band of the Royal Military Academy of Sandhurst provided a beautiful soundtrack to the event, while guests including the Mayor and Mayoress of the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea and Dairy UK cheese producers admired a magnificent display of cheeses – including a 24kg cheddar from J. D. Montgomery. The table couldn’t hold the entire 295 kilograms donated! 

After the Governor’s speech – where he reflected on events over the past year and the welcome return of traditions like this – the Chaplain blessed the cheese and Ash Amirahmadi, the Chairman of Dairy UK, spoke of providing “fine cheeses to enjoy over Christmas to show appreciation of the men and women of the Royal Hospital”, as well as mentioning the vintage ale donated to the Pensioners by Fullers. 

Then came the highlight of the ceremony as Chelsea Pensioner Michael Allen, who served for 24 years in the Royal Military Police, cut a cheese with a ceremonial sword. “It’s a privilege to be chosen to help commemorate such a long-standing tradition”, Michael said, “I am very much looking forward to sampling the different cheeses”.

Making a song and dance about cheese

Afterwards, the guests enjoyed a surprise appearance from vintage Strictly Come Dancing professionals Ian Waite and Erin Boag, who performed a waltz and a foxtrot. “It’s a dream come true to dance for the Chelsea Pensioners surrounded by cheese” Ian joked to the appreciative audience. 

Finally, everyone enjoyed canapes and bubbly and raised their voices to sing The Quartermaster’s Stores – an entertaining old Army song that begins “There was cheese, cheese wafting on the breeze”.

Chelsea Pensioners from old hands to new arrivals threw themselves into the celebrations. 

Michael Campbell-Smith, who likes blue cheese in particular and feels we make it “far better than the French” says the Pensioners look forward to the cheese ceremony:

“I like the way we maintain traditions here – it’s brilliant. This shows we’re appreciated by the industry and we have a bit of fun too.”

Newcomer Helen thoroughly enjoyed her first cheese ceremony.

“I’m very impressed by the speeches, the pageantry, the company and the entertainment. I’m really enjoying all that goes on here, we’re here to keep the tradition going”.

“Food brings people together”

The Dairy UK cheesemongers and producers were equally impressed. Neil Stewart of Saputo summed up his impressions of the unique occasion:

“This was my first time at the cheese ceremony and it was absolutely spectacular. I’ve only ever seen the Royal Hospital on TV and being here on such a beautiful day is incredible.  It’s so British to have a ceremony for cheese – so unique and special.  I’m very proud of British cheese. Food brings people together, particularly at Christmas time and that’s really good.”